A change in the weather today with the temperature back to the seasonal average but with low cloud shrouding Thorncombe Beacon and inland so I was pleased to have completed the high section yesterday.
The sea was grey at Eype’s Mouth, although the waves bigger than on previous days. From there, it was an easy climb over to West Bay. Here, the cliff rises extremely sharply from the beach but due to a recent landslip the SWCP Association website states a temporary diversion has been set up, with the path diverted over the golf course behind. On the ground, there didn’t seem to be a diversion sign but no-one was climbing the cliff either so I hedged my bets and took the diversion. Avoiding the golf balls, I arrived at a large caravan park, a labyrinth in which I mislaid the path, but eventually I was back on track up the next cliff with the sea below audible; behind me the gloom had intensified but there were pools of light out to sea.
Arriving at Hive beach at 11.05, it was too early for lunch and I thought the 3 miles to West Bexington and its pub could be achieved in time for lunch. It was, but it was a hard 3 miles, with almost half on Cogden beach, where stones the size of pea gravel made for slow progress.
The pub was 500 metres up the hill from the beach. Sat outside were five walkers from a walking group through which Dad and Mum met nearly 70 years ago, small world and amazing it is still going. Lunch of soup and a salad, eaten outside, was delicious.
When I had arrived in West Bexington the SWCP seemed to continue along more shingle, at least initially, and already part the way up the hill I decided to pick up the alternative inland coastal path to get to Abbotsbury. This officially recognised route, now known as the South Dorset Ridgeway, runs from West Bexington to Osmington Mills and provides (on a clear day) expansive views of the unusual coastline, including the 17-mile-long Chesil beach and the 8-mile-long tidal Fleet lagoon, and the island of Portland, with tantilising glimpses of the tops of the Jurassic cliffs eastwards. Today, I walked the first 3 miles, which once the initial height had been gained, was reasonably level and I found myself descending to Abbotsbury before 3pm, having walked more than 12 miles, a couple of miles further than the official distance, despite taking that inland, and probably, slightly shorter route. Maintenance works were being undertaken at Abbey House B&B and as a consequence my room was upgraded to one with a huge bathroom as well as a choice of two large beds. Having sorted myself out I had time to enjoy a cream tea at a friendly nearby cafe. Sadly, service at the only pub open for dinner was very different, totally lacking warmth, while the food was barely passable.
Other than the pub lunch, which was excellent, I didn’t particularly enjoy this section. Dad didn’t either, seeming to have walked for longer on the beach than I did, and then after West Bexington, although the shoreline path seems clear on his map, he somehow found himself up the hill near the Labour in Vain farm arriving in Abbotsbury via a back lane.
Walking in my Dad’s footsteps: the South West Coastal Path 