Just four miles long by a mile-and-a-half wide at its widest point, Portland marks the southernmost point of the Jurassic coast and is joined to the mainland by a narrow spit of Chesil beach. Portland officially became part of the SWCP in 2003 and was only an optional extra in 1998; Dad didn’t do it, heading off from Weymouth straight to Lulworth. He missed out on a unique experience.
Rob and I visited Portland last year, parking at the high viewpoint in Fortuneswell overlooking Chesil beach and took a short circular walk to both sides of the north part of the island linked by residential roads. It was nothing special and I wasn’t sure therefore what to expect from today. Now I know that we didn’t experience the best part of Portland; the rocky scenery and coastal wildness beyond Fortuneswell, the far end of the island and the east side (except the blight that is the perimeter fence of HM Young Offenders Institution) and the final descent to Castletown were all thoroughly enjoyable. These areas are probably fabulous at anytime but today were accentuated by wonderful autumn skies, both light and dark, vivid and moody.
A brighter day than yesterday awaited as I headed to the Portland bus, with the sea in Weymouth Bay beautifully calm, although the tops of some of the cliffs around Lulworth were shrouded in cloud. As I gained the cliffline in Portland, the ridgeway walked yesterday could be seen all the way to Osmington Mills although the highest parts were obscured by mist. Below, in contrast to Weymouth Bay, waves noisily pounded Chesil beach.
The continuing path along the cliffs was easy and level, with a couple of short diversions inland where the cliffs are unstable, with a wild feel away from human habitation for a couple of kilometres, then with some unattractive housing estates and a business park on the inland side for a while. Another mile of open clifftop followed before the distinctive red and white striped lighthouse of Portland Bill appeared ahead at the southern tip of the island, with a tide race and moody skies behind. Here, there is a cluster of buildings of the MoD, the coastguard and a popular takeaway. Lunchtime beckoned.
On a clear day Portland Bill affords extensive views along the coastline in both directions. Today, Durlston Head near Swanage was visible but in the other direction the end of Chesil beach was not. Turning north along the east coast, I headed through a collection of little huts, both brightly-coloured and pastel shades, with two tide races seen a few hundred metres off the shore but the sea reasonably calm close to the cliffs. It was a totally different coastline on this side of the island, fine lower cliffs (at least for a while), piles of limestone everywhere set against the dark sea and sky, the path lined with an abundance of withering wild flowers, the chalk cliffs of the Lulworth area getting nearer and clearer, although still with some lingering mist, peaceful yet exhilarating.
After a 2-kilometre stretch of path, the route follows the road for 600 yards before descending into an unexpectedly beautiful undercliff area (the Southwell landslip) that tortuously delivered me to one of the most stunning beaches, Church Ope Cove, I’ve been on anywhere in the world. Smooth limestone pebbles of varying sizes set against the bluey-green sea rolling on to the shore and varied coloured beach huts backing onto it. I sat for a while just absorbing it and found it hard to tear myself away.
A climb up a long flight of concrete steps followed, reaching a view point, continuing above another huge undercliff area and below some increasingly high cliffs (Grove Cliff). The chalk cliffs of Lulworth and beyond were now clear.
Eventually the high cliffs had to be climbed, with the path zig zagging upwards and at the top I found myself walking alongside the aforementioned perimeter fence of the young offenders institution. Continuing, I passed a motorhome and caravan site with high wired fencing topped with barbed wire and a view straight towards it. Not an attractively-situated campsite but seemingly the only one on the island. A steep descending flight of stone steps then picked up an old railway track path with views of the Fleet lagoon, Chesil beach and later, as it dropped down, the marina area. I was soon back at the bus stop with 11 miles (nearly all of them fabulous) walked, a day that ranks as one of my favourites on the SWCP.
Walking in my Dad’s footsteps: the South West Coastal Path 