Walking in my Dad’s footsteps: the South West Coastal Path

Exmouth to Sidmouth: Friday October 6th

I have walked the SWCP three times in the autumn and particularly enjoy it at this time of year, with the autumn colours and light. The coast is also not too busy and the temperatures tend to be good for walking. So here I am again in the autumn, embarking on my final stage of the SWCP, 11 days and 115 miles to South Haven Point, although temperatures over the next few days are forecast to be about 5C above average, not what was ordered. I’ve set myself a slightly more leisurely itinerary than previously but this stretch is one of the longest at 12 to 13 miles according to the guide book (more than 14 miles on my watch), although less arduous in terms of ascent than some of the days to come. Having arrived in Exmouth mid-afternoon, I strolled down to the Exe ferry landing point, along the promenade above the red sand beach to the RNLI station and back to the B&B, shortening tomorrow’s walk by just over a mile. Good views back across the Exe and the coastline all the way to what I think must be Berry Head near Brixham.

Coastline from Berry Head to Dawlish Warren and Cockwood taken from Exmouth Promenade

Dad arrived in Exmouth via a water taxi across the narrow strip of water that separates the Dawlish Warren Nature Reserve and the Exmouth shoreline. His route to Budleigh Salterton should have been the one I took but it seems when he arrived at the (monstrous as he rightly described it) East Devon Caravan Park, a couple of miles out of Exmouth, he lost his way and headed inland, arriving into Budleigh Salterton along narrow lanes and woodland tracks.

The short distance across the Exe to Dawlish Warren Nature Reserve from where Dad took a water taxi

After breakfast chatting to an American who had just finished a 12-day SWCP itinerary, I was back on the seafront in 15 minutes, soon reaching Orcombe Point and its Geoneedle, which indicates the start of the Jurassic Coast (a 95-mile stretch of coastline that is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for its outstanding rocks, fossils and landforms) and built out of fragments of the different types of rocks seen along the coast. The Jurassic Coast is the only part of the planet where rocks from the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods are found in one place, representing 185 million years of Earth’s history, over which time continents have collided, landscapes have been shaped by the weather and tide, and amazing creatures have evolved, lived and died.

Shortly, the modern monstrosity that is the East Devon Caravan Park – 1400 chalets – came into sight. Situated above the unimaginatively-named Sandy Bay, strewn with seaweed, and adjacent to a military firing range, this seems an unattractive location for a holiday. The walk round the caravan park took a while, but at least nowadays the SWCP is well signposted and, in contrast to Dad, I arrived at its far side to continue along the correct path.

The Geoneedle, which was unveiled in 2002, built out of fragments of the different types of rocks to be seen along the coast

East Devon Caravan Park- which Dad described as monstrous, the size of a small town

The route to Budleigh Salterton was reasonably easy above the crumbly sandstone cliffs, with views at times to the town and the coast beyond, possibly as far as Portland in the hazy distance. On leaving Budleigh Salteron, the path headed a kilometre inland alongside a nature reserve to cross the Otter Estuary and then back along the edges of cultivated fields to the coast and cliffs. By now, it was approaching the time for lunch, generously-sized hummus sandwiches and chocolate cake enjoyed on Black Head with the sea below and from where I could occasionally hear firing from the military firing range passed 5 miles earlier.

Looking back to Budleigh Salterton from the far side of the Otter Estuary

Approaching my lunch spot with High Peak and Sidmouth seen ahead

The sun had come out now after a generally cloudy morning and the afternoon’s clifftop walk was delightful, with stunning views of the Ladram Bay sea-stacks and the cliffs beyond Sidmouth, and the rolling, pastoral east Devon countryside to my left. The climb towards High Peak from Ladram Bay was not as hard as anticipated, always a bonus, and after a break chatting to fellow walkers at a bench overlooking a beach that stretches to Sidmouth, I was soon heading downhill into this Regency town for an ice cream and to check in to my seafront hotel, where my room had a small balcony on which I enjoyed coffee overlooking the glistening sea.

Ladram Bay, High Peak and Sidmouth beyond

View from the bench near Windgate where I chatted with some other walkers

Plymouth waterfront to Mount Batten: Wednesday 5th and Thursday 6th October

Dad walked from the Cremyll ferry landing through to the Mount Batten ferry and then carried on with his walk, finishing in Wembury. I had planned to do the same in May but ended up having to cancel the walk as far as Plymouth. This time I had an extra day in Plymouth sitting out a train strike, so time to rest and relax as well as link up with my starting point in May, Mount Batten. Wednesday was wet and windy so I stayed indoors until the rain abated and then headed for the Mount Batten ferry to Turnchapel for a short walk to a cafe for lunch before returning. On Thursday, before catching the train, I walked back to the Cremyll ferry landing and did the full waterfront as far as the Hoe. An urban walk of 3-4 miles mainly along the waterfront of this historic maritime city, different to the vast majority of the remaining SWCP, an essential experience while here.

*View from Devil’s Point near King William Yard*

*Also taken from near Devil’s Point, looking towards the next stage of the SWCP*

*Looking towards Plymouth Hoe from Western King Point*

*The car park below Mount Batten where I set off in May*

Crafthole to Plymouth: Tuesday 4th October

My last full day on the path this year and the last bit of Cornwall. Can’t believe I first reached Cornwall back in June 2017 and have walked the 280 miles of its coastline since plus of course 90+ miles in Devon.

It was a grey day, although I could now see the Tamar, if not Dartmoor, from my bedroom window. Having left the pub at 9 and regained the coastal path a few minutes later, I found it was also a very breezy day with an onshore wind which meant rollers crashing onto the beaches and rocks. Some mist was hovering over the headlands above Portwinkle and Polperro but ahead Rame Head at least was clear.

It was easy walking but with some elements of excitement; first crossing a golf course in that wind, then the military firing range (obviously not firing), then a field of hostile-looking cows. At Freathy, it became a road walk with that strong onshore breeze making it important to keep my balance as the cars whizzed past.

As I walked, there was evidence of the crumbly nature of the cliffs, both in terms of visible land slips and signage with some paths closed. Despite this, there were numerous holiday chalets built down some of the less steep slopes, often some distance from the road and accessible by paths and steps only. They wouldn’t be my choice for a holiday!

Finally, at about 6 miles I was on Rame Head, a more typical stretch of Cornish coastline. The most enjoyable section was from turning the headland until Penlee Point, with waves pounding below and the wind giving a sense of exhilaration. It didn’t last that long though and soon I had rounded the corner again with Plymouth Sound to my right and the protection of woodland.

*Rame Head taken on the way to Penlee Point*

Cawsand and the adjoining village of Kingsand were attractive places and Dad stayed the night (having walked from Seaton) in the latter. I pressed on keen to catch the 3.30 ferry to Plymouth. Apparently, it is just 3 miles from Cawsand through the Mount Edgcumbe Country Park but although reasonably flat it seemed much longer (a poorly signed diversion didn’t help). Luckily, I made it with 5 minutes to spare. The price of the short crossing was £2, exactly the same as Dad paid in 1998! Dad walked quickly through Plymouth to the Mount Batten ferry and on to Wembury. I’m here for 2 days due to a train strike before heading back north. I felt every one of my 64 years on arrival at the B&B in West Hoe, so a lazy day planned although I do intend to join the dots by walking the waterfront to the Mount Batten ferry and indeed taking it while I’m here. Maybe I’ll even start planning the final stage of my SWCP adventure…

*Almost there, peaceful scene in Mount Edgcumbe Country Park with the Mew Stone in the distance*

Polperro to Crafthole: Monday 3rd October

Another glorious morning, if chilly out of the sun in the narrow streets of Polperro, but fortunately the path breaks out onto open cliff fairly quickly. The path was relatively easy to Talland Bay, the sea a shimmering silver below me. Onwards, the scenery became more attractive, the path more difficult. Passing the Hore Stone, I climbed to a rocky ledge with a view across Looe Bay to Rame Head with St George’s Island in the foreground. After a descent, another climb and a brief rest, the path descended again to a flat grassy area very popular with the dog-walking fraternity of Looe. From there, it was a road walk past some large houses to West Looe. Here, I found the seasonal ferry that runs between West and East Looe was still running and it seemed worth the £1 investment! On the other side, I made the mistake (as I later found out) of stopping at the first place selling sandwiches.

*View of Polperro as I left the village*

Dad found Looe unattractive and I likewise found no reason to linger. Sadly, the next section of the SWCP wasn’t particularly inspiring either. I bought out my sandwiches at a picnic table above Millendreath but only ate one, finding them uninspiring. Carrying on to Seaton I bought a pasty instead.

Seaton was where Dad finished the first stage of his SWCP adventure, although for some reason he took a bus first to Plymouth and then Bigbury, where he found the seasonal ferry had stopped, before giving up. He restarted the walk, 8 years later back in Seaton. His diary entries this time became much longer and more descriptive, which I can now relate to more. For example, he describes the exact bend outside Downderry where the path to Portwinkle leaves the road.

From Seaton the official route, which Dad took, is along the road to Downderry, but with the tide going out a path alongside the sea wall and then the beach seemed a better option. After Downderry, the path climbed high onto cliffs for the last 2.5 miles to Portwinkle. The sky had clouded over but the walk was pleasant enough although as Dad notes not as scenic as he had found elsewhere along the Cornish coast. Rame Head could be seen ahead (and indeed had been visible since Dodman Point) but as I neared Portwinkle it disappeared in a rain shower and by the time I descended to the village it was raining out to sea too. Fortunately, it was a short walk up the hill to my B&B / pub stop. My room should have had a view of the Tamar and Dartmoor but sadly this was obliterated by the sea mist / rain finally catching up with me.

*Downderry beach – the first sand I’ve walked on this time*

*View of the cliffs ahead as the path leaves the Downderry road*

*View back as the path descends towards Portwinkle*

*View from my window in the pub in Crafthole*

Par to Polperro: Sunday 2nd October

I woke to rain pattering on the dormer windows but by 9am it had thankfully cleared away and blue sky was starting to appear. Within an hour, the sun was shining and the weather remained glorious all day. How lucky was I?; this is a wonderful section of coastline if a bit tough at times. Dad described it as the best section to date; it’s certainly a strong contender.

The route from Polmear to Gribbin Head was more open than the previous day and I had views back to that stretch of coastline, sparkling blue sea and the hills behind St Austell. Dad had described them as reminiscent of the Torridon hills, I’ve no idea why, they’re nothing like them in my opinion.

*Nearing Gribbin Head with views across to St Austell*

Turning Gribbin Head, the views just got better and the walking remained reasonably easy as least as far as the SWCP goes. I found myself in Fowey at 12 ready for lunch, which I enjoyed on a bench by Town Quay before boarding the Polruan ferry to cross the Fowey estuary.

*Looking towards Fowey from Gribbin Head*

On the other side, the path makes height through the narrow streets before breaking out onto the cliffs. Here, I could see back to Dodman Point and eventually to what I think must have been St Anthony’s Head near St Mawes. The first couple of miles weren’t too difficult but approaching Pencarrow Head and thereafter there was a lot of up and down, often on long flights of steps, up to 170 in places. The beaches, coves, rock formations and the cliffs, all set against the aquamarine sea were however stunning. The view from the vantage point above what I think was Colorful Cove took my breath away. Eventually, with 14 miles walked, I rounded the final corner for my first view of Polperro and my bed for the night at The House on the Props.

*A ‘wow’ moment – Colorful Cove I think with a descent of 160 steps*

Mevagissey to Par: Saturday 1st October

Dad did this section combined with a walk (presumably direct) from Boswinger YHA and then carried onto Fowey. It seems an awfully long day. He notes it wasn’t very scenic so I didn’t have high expectations of the day but actually it was a very pleasant walk until Carylon Bay and Par itself. Dad did say alot of his walk was by road so route differences may explain our different experiences

It was another lovely Cornish morning when I left the hotel and a real contrast to when I’d arrived. I walked along ‘millionaires row’ and then down hill to the village, bought lunch and set off up hill. It’s a rollercoaster route for the 7 or so miles to Porthpean but most of the slopes weren’t too steep. I stopped for a break in the square of Pentewan. On regaining height, the path was frequently lined with hedgerows to both sides and where there were gaps the view dropped steeply to the sea. Benches for a further rest were conspicuous by their absence. In all honesty there wasn’t room for them. Eventually, there was a flight of 170 steps down to Silvermine valley and there I found a safe patch of grass with a view that could have passed for Greece to have my lunch. Shortly afterwards, the path went through a field with great views towards Porthpean and beyond. After Porthpean, a closure of the SWCP necessitated a longer road diversion into Charlestown. Here, I stopped for an ice cream then pressed on but it looked like an interesting place to visit another time. Thereafter, the walking was easy but uninteresting with a long stretch alongside a golf course and then around Par clay works. After that it wasn’t too far to my B and B.

*Looking back as I approached Penare Point*

Veryan to Mevagissey: Friday 30th September

With the forecast predicting heavy rain and strong winds by lunchtime, an early start seemed a good idea. Buses from Veryan back to Portloe are infrequent and the pub wouldn’t normally do breakfast until after 9 meaning I’d have missed the 9.25. So they laid out cereal and fruit for me instead. Having woken really early, the plan was to catch the 7.04 bus and put as many miles as possible behind me before it rained. Unfortunately, the bus didn’t materialise and after 15 minutes I gave up and walked the 1.5 miles to Portloe.

It was a lovely still morning with an autumnal feel and it stayed that way through to Portholland. The path across the cliffs was attractively bordered by bracken, heather, ivy and gorse and not wasn’t too difficult but did go up and down quite a bit. The sea was more audible than yesterday, gradually livening up over the course of the morning as the wind picked up.

*View shortly after leaving Portloe with Dodman Point in the far distance*

The path became easier between Portholland and Porthluney Cove but the onward stretch to Hennick beach was similar to that out of Portloe. Approaching this attractive beach, where Dad would have left for the day to walk to Boswinger hostel, there was evidence of coastal erosion where a former path had collapsed onto the beach. By this time, the wind had picked up considerably, making the walk to Dodman Point quite difficult and the Point itself definitely wasn’t a place to linger or even try to take a photo

*Hennick beach with Dodman Point in the distance*

Having rounded the Point, things became much easier as I made my way to Gorran Haven. In the final few minutes, the rain started and I sought shelter in a cafe where I very much enjoyed their soup.

*Dartmoor ponies with Vault Beach behind*

*Gorran Haven seen on rounding Maenease Point*

By the time I left it was quite miserable but it was only 3 miles to my hotel outside Megavissey and once I’d descended to Turbot Point I was out of the wind. Still I was grateful to arrive at the hotel and for the very warm welcome by the owner, a bath and a complimentary cream tea!

St Mawes to Portloe: Thursday 29th September 2022

Third time lucky! Before Covid struck I had planned the St Mawes to Plymouth section of the SWCP for May 2020 with younger daughter Mari. Then by myself in May 2022 as part of a longer section to Teignmouth or beyond, only to actually catch covid in the run up to the trip, leading me to cancel the first 6 days and walk from Plymouth instead. Had I done this section in May, I understand the weather would have been warm, sunny and dry. Forecast for the next 6 days is cool and definitely not dry. Never mind! At least I’m here, my more recent concern was of a train strike preventing me travelling.

Dad split this section, having conducted walk admin in Falmouth during the morning, walking to Porthscatho after having lunch at Place. He found the following day hard (or at least slow) and from his description I deduce there have been substantial improvements to the Porthscatho to Portloe path since 1990 as I found the walking much easier than implied from his diary.

My day started with a short open boat ride over to Place. Quite different to the ferry over from Falmouth. In Dad’s day, the contrast was even greater with a very informal arrangement where he had to hail the boat, reminiscent of the boat across the Yealm.

The morning was intermittently damp but the walking was reasonably easy and the mix of sunshine and rain clouds made for interesting light effects over St Mawes, the Fal estuary and out to sea. I passed a former military installation at St Anthony Head, some Shetland ponies grazing the nearby scrub land and then the stunning inaccessible Porthbeor beach before getting soaked by a sudden heavy downpour but dried out before reaching the village of Porthscatho. I continued on walking to the Hidden Hut cafe on Porthcurnick beach for lunch; their dahl is highly recommended and the view from the outdoor seating excellent.

The afternoon sunshine made the long walk around Gerrans bay to the extensive Pendower beach and onwards to Nare Head a pleasure. The final couple of miles to Portloe involved quite a lot of up and down before the small village finally and suddenly appeared below. Accommodation and eating options in Portloe seemed limited to a 5* hotel so I’d booked at a pub in nearby Veryan a short bus ride away, necessitating just a short wait in the sun.

Salcombe to Torcross: Wednesday 18th May 2022

The last day of my current trip and what a walk to finish on! Another day when rain was forecast in late afternoon, so another early start. The Devon lanes are narrow and Rob doesn’t particularly enjoy driving them so with the Salcombe ferry running regularly he dropped me off back in Salcombe rather than driving the other side of the Salcombe estuary to East Portlemouth.

Dad started his day at Salcombe YHA, which was situated near the tropical National Trust gardens of Overbeck, so he had 1.5 miles of road walking in heavy rain before the ferry. Apparently he was offered a lift, but declined as he said that would be cheating. The rain stopped before his ferry landed, a good thing as rain would make those tricky exposed sections of path more dangerous for him.

The Salcombe estuary was choppy as we crossed suggesting the open seas would be lively. Mist shrouded Bolt Head but soon lifted. It’s an easy walk for the first couple of miles through woodland then open cliffside and I had walked it with the family when we stayed in Salcombe in March 2020 but walks always change with the seasons and weather and today the sea was certainly making it’s presence felt. Before Gara beach and continuing all the way to Prawle Point the path was quite demanding with a bit of exposure in places requiring surefootedness and a head for heights; to compensate the scenery was fabulous and huge waves pounding the shoreline below made for an exhilarating walk.

At Prawle Point, the most southerly point of Devon, the landscape changed. In front of me were raised beaches formed around 10,000 years ago, towards the end of the last ice age, with the former cliff line behind. It was an easy undulating path for the next couple of miles, where outside Maelcombe House I found a bench to rest. I had been aiming for Lannacombe Beach, just over a mile away, for lunch but after a few minutes rest decided to take it on that bench. It was a good decision as that mile took longer than anticipated as the path became quite rugged and the sun also disappeared shortly after I left the bench.

At Lannacombe Beach, I stopped again to contemplate the onward path. Paddy Dillon refers to some exposed sections and rocky ledges requiring care on the section before reaching Start Point. He hadn’t mentioned similar characteristics on the earlier section of the path so I anticipated it was going to be worse. The first exposed bit came up quite quickly with the path literally right on the edge of the crumbling cliff however another path had been created behind it; obviously it was a no-brainer to take that one. The second exposed section was certainly no worse than the sections around Gara beach. The rocky ledge of concern was above Sleadon Rocks but again I felt this was no more tricky than those earlier sections. Then it was a relatively straightforward climb up to Start Point.

As you reach the ridge of Start Point, Start Bay comes into view. A bit hazy today but the onward view to Torcross was clear as were Slapton Sands and Blackpool Sands, visited last week. The last 3.5 miles to Torcross were far less dramatic than the previous few miles. The final climb up steep steps from Beesands quite hard at the end of the day with Torcross a welcome sight at the end of 13 miles and 850 m of ascent. The stage of Paddy Dillon’s book continues to Stoke Fleming another 6 miles; that would be really tough. On his first trip at 69 years of age, Dad frequently did 17-18 miles or more in a day, at 77 he too decided to stop at Torcross. He did however continue his walk, without a rest day, for another 11 days, all the way to South Haven Point, another 161 miles assuming the sign at Start Point is correct.

*The Salcombe estuary at 9 am during the ferry crossing, with mist on Bolt Head*

*Looking towards Gammon Head and Prawle Point*

*Above Gara beach looking back to Sharp Tor and Bolt Head, now clear of mist*

*Channels and jutting cliffs formed by the sea at the far end of Gara Beach*

*Looking back at Gammon Head on the way to Prawle Point*

Looking back at Sleadon Rocks as I climbed up to the ridge of Start Point

*View along the east of Start Bay from Start Point*

*Torcross and the natural lake of Slapton Ley Nature Reserve and the sea beyond*

Bantham to Salcombe: Tuesday 17th May 2022

Dad didn’t have much luck with ferries, particularly at Bigbury, but at least this time he knew in advance that the ferry to Bantham wouldn’t be running so he had organised a taxi from Bigbury to Bantham. With rain forecast at 3pm, I was keen to make an early start on this stretch and with the ferry not starting until 10am, Rob drove me to Bantham before 9.

It was a lovely sunny morning and a joy to be out. The Avon estuary was peaceful and as it was shortly after high tide, Burgh island was truly an island. I was accompanied on my way by the sound of the waves rolling onto the red sandy beaches beneath me. The cliffs were much lower than yesterday but still crumbly in places. As I enjoyed a rest on a bench seat I could see back all the way to Stoke Point and behind it a distant Cornish headland. Having passed Thurlstone golf course and the danger of being hit by flying golf balls, I was on a path I had previously walked with Rob, Mari and Dan when we stayed in Salcombe before our visit to Wembury. It was an easy walk into Hope Cove, easier than previously when it had been quite blustery.

However, things changed when I emerged onto Bolt Tail, the headland above Hope Cove. Here I could feel a good wind pretty much coming straight at me. After that initial climb, the onward route was reasonably easy, passing round the edges of several more crumbling cliffs. Later on, after crossing West Cliff I encountered a small herd of horned cows but thankfully they took no interest in me or the other walkers. By now, the sun had gone in and the sky darkened but it stayed dry.

A low cliff above Soar Mill Cove was a great lunch spot, sheltered with fabulous views and the sound of the sea crashing onto the rocks and beach. A place to savour. Several dramatic rock formations were passed on the long climb up from Soar Mill Cove and these continued on both the seaward and landward side of the path until Bolt Head. Having rounded Bolt Head, I descended towards Starehole Bay then up and around the pierced rock pinnacle of Sharp Tor which overlooks the Salcombe estuary and part of tomorrow’s walk on the opposite side. From Sharp Tor, it was an easy, partly-wooded path for a short distance, then a road into Salcombe. Total mileage just over 11, with 800m of climbing. Rob and I sat on the North Sands beach briefly and then the forecast rain arrived. It was 2.40. I had timed my walk well!